Une Promenade à Montmartre

The weather was fantastic outside, and because it was a bit late (since a certain someone decided to take quite the long nap) and I was still tired from our flight, I decided against lugging around my heavy guidebook since we were only walking towards Sacre Coeur. But I turned the wrong way leaving the apartment and led us on an hour adventure through the 18th arrondissement. Oops.

I realized we were going in the opposite direction when at one point, by the Garibaldi metro, I looked up and saw the top of Sacre Coeur in the distance. It should have been much closer. So I headed that way using only the sight of the church dome as my guide. I also figured that I should be going uphill. [Reminder: Always have a map.]

We arrived at Rue Lamarck, which I remembered from my past trips to Paris, and from there we hiked up the steps — the many, many steps — to get to Montmartre. Then we passed a tour group taking pictures of the Jean Marais sculpture of “The Man Who Could Walk Through Walls,” a tribute to the story by writer Marcel Aymé. People were holding the statue’s left hand because it is believed that there is some of magic that could be transferred to you from the statue. I should have held onto that hand.

Ahead I saw Rue Lepic, a street in my guidebook that was supposed to have a few good restaurants. Since it was about 9 PM, we decided to have a bite. So we ended up at Autour du Moulin, a pleasant restaurant and bar with a cute waitress and genial bartender.

I had the special of the day — moules et frites — and Brandon ordered a rump steak with a tasty pepper sauce. We each had tomatoes and mozzarella to start and also ordered two pints of Delirium Tremens, which is the beer brewed by Delirium Café, a bar that is pretty much the reason for our side trip to Brussels. 

I devoured the entire bowl of marinated mussels, and the homemade frites that came with our dinners were the best fries I’ve ever had. We ended the night with a bottle of Chimay and then took a wobbly walk down the hill and towards the main avenue. We turned the corner after Rue Lepic and found ourselves in front of the Moulin Rouge. We were definitely in the red light. We strolled past the Montmartre cemetery and found a funny “Perdu” poster of a parakeet on the map at the Place de Clichy metro sign. (Brandon got confused and thought “Perdu” was the name of the missing bird. Ha ha.)

We made it back to the apartment around midnight and were so tired that we fell into a deep sleep.